From The Bench

The first project for my shed/workshop has been completed, and while it's not exactly how I wanted it to turn out, it is a very welcome addition to the work space. The original idea for these modular drawers, was that I could have a lot of tools and anything else I may need, in these drawer modules close to hand. Should I need to carry out work onsite, the drawer modules could separate quickly, and without bolts etc. Put onto a sack trolley, and into the van, no looking for tools, no gathering tools, everything is there ready to go. At point 'B' I have the majority of my essential tools, in one place, set up quickly, and a workbench with dog holes ready to go!

However I don't think I fully achieved this, purely because of the weight of one empty module, although by removing the top drawer it is more manageable, even with the bottom drawer loaded, but this is not what I envisioned. The next opportunity I get I may give it a go, and see how the transportation goes, with any luck I might be surprised.

The build itself is very simple, the main modules are built with butt joint's (18mm ply), glued and screwed together. The drawer's much the same (12mm), but I used brad nails. The cleaver part (if you can call it that), is the way the drawer's are made and fitted. The base of the drawer is over sized fitting into rebates, either side of the module acting as a drawer runner. This is a really good design (not my own), because at any one time the weight (downward force) of the drawer, will only ever have 5mm of friction. Add some bee's wax, and the drawers are as smooth as Michael Jackson moonwalk on a Friday night, even when loaded.

The sides and back never touch the module (2mm gap either side), so there's no extra friction which keeps the slide action smooth. The back end of the base/drawer, I left around 30mm overhang, although 70mm would've been better. This is to allow me to pull the drawer out far enough, giving good access, and also helps supporting the drawer at full range. It also leaves room, so I can use clamps etc. with the dog holes at the back of the modules.

The rebate spacing also plays a key roll, allowing around 2mm between the drawers and the base of the module, keeping up with the minimal friction concept.

Although this was simple enough to build, I did make several mistakes, mainly undercutting material, but I did build this on the fly. Beyond this, I do think the design could be made better, especially the way it locks together. The toolbox latches are quick and easy, but they could hinder clamping material, because of their location. I also think a lick of paint wouldn’t go a miss, but what colour to go for?

I do however really like the wheels, because they can be removed in seconds, and they also open up some new avenues of possibility. If you were to build this, with my original concept in mind, what would change and why?

Maker Spotlight

This beautiful small kumiko unit/lamp is the work of David gootnick, a very talented kumiko practitioner. I believe these units were designed to nest inside of bookcases/shelving, and (in my opinion) bring the space alive. Click on the image and head over to David's Instagram page to see his fine work.

Question Of The Week

Q. Is it worth cutting dovetails for a piece of furniture, or should I use screws and glue, or some other method?

Barry - York, UK.

A. Yes, definitely worth it especially for strength and longevity. There are examples of furniture with dovetails, that have survived from the 17th century. You don't go 300 years without getting dragged, and banged about a little, yet still be standing in the 21st century. Dovetails are incredibly strong, (and in my opinion) often overlooked/misjudged for their strength and longevity, when not used in a box like structure like a dovetail blanket chest (4 corners dovetailed). I have a coffee table that is an 'N' shape (around 6 years old), the top, and 2 sides/leg sections. The 2 corners are dovetailed, and there is no rails underneath the top for bracing. This table (on a daily basis) gets dragged about, sat on, stood on, flipped and occasionally kicked. Those dovetails joints have not moved, and are the same as the day I glued them up six years ago. If you want something to outlive you, use dovetails!

Do you have a woodworking related question? Reply to this email, or login and leave your question below. I read them all and will feature one in the next issue.

What Caught My Eye

The above machine is new to me, I've never seen anything like it. This is a champion mortice machine, and is hand cranked, I now NEED one! Click the image and head over to Instagram to watch the reel, and listen to Seth explaining how it works, very cool!

Final Shavings

I have finished recording and editing the modular drawer build. That will be available to view on YouTube the 11th of January at 6pm (UK time).

I’m currently recording a video with some simple work holding examples, using pegs and clamps etc. Head over to youtube and subscribe here if the 2 above interest you.

In case you missed it, my last video (building a coat hanger) can be watched here, and a podcast is available to those who are interested. You can listen on Spotify here, and Apple Podcasts  here, and watch on YouTube here.

If you’ve enjoyed this, feel free to share with someone who’d appreciate it. This will help to grow and support the newsletter.

Until next time

-David 

DW Woodworks